by Kristin Pitzer

With temps soaring into the 90s and above, humidity levels ramping up and insect activity increasing, there’s no doubt about it: the “dog days of summer” are here. The phrase refers to the 20 days before and after the star Sirius, or the “Dog Star,” rises and falls in conjunction with the sun and is typically used to describe the hottest and most humid days of summer.

Despite the often-unpleasant weather, many shows and events take place during this time. But as the temperature rises, the risk of heat stress in horses also increases, especially if they’re working vigorously. Quarter Horse News spoke with Jamie Pribyl, DVM, Professional Services Veterinarian at Boehringer Ingelheim, to learn how to ride and show safely during the hot days ahead.

Temperature and Humidity Play the Biggest Role

While there are several factors that can cause a horse to go into heat stress, temperature and humidity levels are the biggest. Once the temperature rises above 80 degrees, even without humidity, horses struggle to stay cool, especially if they’re in heavy work.

“And if our humidity is elevated, that’s going to add to it,” Pribyl said. “You can add the ambient temperature, so let’s say it’s 90 degrees, to the percent humidity, and if you get a number over 150, then we’re at a really high risk. At that point, the horse has a really difficult time cooling itself with its regular mechanisms.”

Other factors that contribute include being turned out in the sun with no shade; being shut into a poorly ventilated barn; standing in a trailer that is parked in the sun; and not having access to water.

Horses Need Help Acclimating

Horses that live in cooler parts of the country but travel to hotter locations for events may find themselves struggling with the heat even more than their peers. It takes a couple weeks for a horse to acclimate to a new environment, Pribyl noted. If you don’t have extra time for your horse to adjust, there are a few things you can do to help protect him.

“If you’re traveling during the summer to a hotter area, try to do your travel overnight because it’s cooler then,” Pribyl said. “Make frequent stops to give them some water, and if you’re providing them with electrolytes, make sure they also have plain water so that if they don’t like the electrolytes, they’ll drink the plain water instead.”

During the event, try to ride during the coolest parts of the day — mornings or evenings — and limit warmups to retain energy for the show pen. After your run, walk your horse out until their breathing has returned to a normal level, and offer them small amounts of water — half to one gallon every 15 to 20 minutes as you’re walking them out. You can also cold hose them continuously to help them cool, but if you stop while they’re still hot, make sure and scrape any insulating layers of water off to dissipate the heat.

Watch for These Signs

Horses that are suffering from heat stress may not exhibit obvious signs immediately. In fact, they might not look that different at first from a horse that has just been ridden or worked hard.

“If the horse is working, we’re used to seeing them sweat, but a horse in heat stress is going to be sweating excessively,” Pribyl said. ‘That respiratory rate’s going to kick up, and it’s not going to come down as quickly as we would expect it to if they’re being rested. Their heart rate is going to kick up as well. We might see lethargy or fatigue, and then sometimes we can see decreased appetite as well.”

If you don’t catch the early symptoms, a horse that is progressing into heat exhaustion may stop sweating entirely, a condition called anhidrosis. They will become severely dehydrated and may develop muscle tremors and weakness. If their symptoms continue to progress, their condition can become an emergency very quickly.

“The severe symptoms include a very high body temperature —if you were to take the rectal temperature, it could be over 103 or over 105. Basically, the cooling mechanisms have completely failed,” Pribyl said. “At that point, we’re going to see labored breathing. We could even see collapse or some neurologic symptoms like confusion and disorientation. They might develop colic symptoms, and we can start to see organ failure.”

Beware of Anhidrosis

Anhidrosis affects anywhere from 2% to 6% of horses, particularly those living in hot, humid climates. If you notice your horse has stopped sweating, stop all activity immediately. Get them to a cool, shaded area, take their temperature and start working to cool them down. Monitor them for signs of lethargy, reduced appetite and dehydration.

“If they have a temperature above 102 and they haven’t just been vigorously exercising, that’s a tip that this horse isn’t cooling itself,” Pribyl said. “Hose them with cold water, focusing on areas of the horse where the large blood vessels are located, so the neck and the legs. The whole body is great, but focus on those areas. Offer them water, give them electrolytes and monitor those vital signs.”

If your horse is suddenly experiencing anhidrosis when he never has before, call your veterinarian immediately.

Healthy Horses Handle Heat Better

If humans could control the weather, we’d likely never have to worry about heat stress again. But, since we can’t, the best thing you can do to protect your horse from overheating is to feed him properly, offer him plenty of water and shade, and keep him in shape for the type of riding and showing you enjoy.

One tool in your toolbox that is helpful in preventing heat stress is having your horse examined regularly by your veterinarian. He or she can help assess your horse’s body condition and alert you if your horse has a condition that makes him more susceptible to heat illnesses.

“If they’re overweight, that layer certainly insulates them, and that’s going to make it harder for them to cool,” Pribyl said. “Any horse that has PPID — so horses with Cushing’s disease — if they have excess long hair, they’re going to be more susceptible, especially in the summer months. What can we do? Have the overweight horse lose weight, and with the PPID horse, we could body clip them.

“It’s important to monitor all horses during extremely hot conditions, even if you aren’t competing,” Pribyl added. “If you ever suspect a problem, it’s best to call your veterinarian, as he or she knows your horse and can help determine appropriate next steps.”

This article originally appeared on Quarter Horse News and is published here with permission.

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by Kristin Pitzer

As temperatures rise, vegetation flourishes and daylight hours lengthen, there’s no doubt about it: summer is on its way. Many riders enjoy the extra sunshine and longer days, but with warmer weather also arrives the bane of every horse owner’s existence: flies and mosquitoes.

These insects are known for their painful bites and general annoying behavior, but they are also the bearers of something much more sinister. Without proper control measures, flies and mosquitoes can transmit some of the deadliest diseases to your horse.

Quarter Horse News spoke with Dr. Amber Grimes of Carter Veterinary Services, located in Hardeeville, South Carolina, to get the low-down on fly- and mosquito-transmitted diseases and find out how to prevent these pests in the first place.

Flies Spread More Than You Think

A number of diseases and conditions are spread by flies. The most significant in the U.S. include Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA), summer sores, Vesicular stomatitis and sweet itch. Horses that live in pastures bordering creeks and rivers can also be susceptible to Potomac Horse Fever, and those located in the Southwestern U.S. and other dry, arid areas could be exposed to Pigeon fever. For the most part, none of these diseases, except for Potomac Horse Fever, are preventable by vaccines.

“Fly control is so important for these diseases because there is no other method of prevention,” Grimes said. “Preventing the fly from getting to the horse is crucial in preventing diseases that have major consequences and sometimes no treatment.”

The majority of fly diseases are treatable, but failing to treat them can lead to severe outcomes. For instance, Vesicular stomatitis, which is highly contagious and spreads through biting flies, causes ulcers and erosions on the mouth, tongue, coronary band, udder and sheath. Summer sores, or habronemiasis, are caused when flies deposit habronema larvae into open wounds or mucous membranes, producing an inflammatory reaction that leads to non-healing wounds. Even sweet itch, which is an allergic reaction to bites, can cause hair loss, sores, infection and weight loss.

EIA, on the other hand, is not treatable. Once a horse contracts it, it must either be humanely euthanized or spend the rest of its life in isolation at least 200 yards away from any other equine animals. To prevent EIA outbreaks, horses that leave their property for any reason must be accompanied by a current negative coggins test.

Prevention Is the Best Defense

To protect your horse from fly-borne illnesses, the best thing you can do is limit the number of flies on your property. It may sound impossible, but there are several different ways you can create a “no fly zone.”

“Fly masks, sheets and boots are very important because they provide a barrier to the flies to help prevent them from getting on the horse,” Grimes said. “The downside is that some horses don’t tolerate them and pull them off or tear them. Sprays like permectrin also help, but I feel like I always hear that they don’t last very long. Some people install misters that spray at certain times of the day to continually keep the horse covered when in a stall.”

Other fly-control methods include picking up manure from stalls and pastures twice a day at minimum; placing fans on stalls that blow flies off horses; hanging up sticky tape and traps; and applying topical products like Vectra 3D, a monthly flea and tick preventative for dogs that can repel ticks and flies on horses. You can also add a feed-through formula to your horse’s grain, which prevents flies from developing in manure, rather than killing adult flies. It must be fed continuously to all horses on the property, plus horses in neighboring pastures; otherwise, you won’t see much difference.

Mosquito-Borne Illnesses Are Deadly, but Preventable

There are only four significant mosquito-transmitted diseases in the United States, but the ones that are present — Eastern equine encephalomyelitis (EEE), Western equine encephalomyelitis (WEE), Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis (VEE) and West Nile Virus (WNV) — are quite deadly, with inflammation of the brain being the main symptom.

At 90%, EEE and VEE have the highest mortality rates. EEE is spread when mosquitoes feed on infected birds and then bite horses. VEE, despite its name, is found in many places outside of Venezuela, including the Southern U.S. While its hosts tend to be rodents and birds, which spread the disease to horses through mosquito bites, infected horses can pass the disease to other horses via mosquitoes, too.

WEE is similar to EEE in how it is transmitted, but it has a lower mortality rate at 20% to 40%. Birds are also the natural host for WNV, which has a 35% mortality rate, but while most horses recover, many are left with long-term effects like behavioral and walking abnormalities.

These diseases are definitely alarming, but fortunately, there is good news. All four can be prevented by keeping your horse on a consistent vaccine schedule.

“Mosquito control is important, but vaccines are just as, if not more, important,” Grimes said. “In populations where mosquitoes are very prevalent, it is advisable to vaccinate twice a year to prevent disease from occurring. It is much easier to prevent than it is to treat, especially since none of these diseases have treatments.”

Even Vaccinated Horses Need Mosquito Control

Even if your horses are vaccinated, it’s wise to limit mosquito development on your property for your horses’ comfort and your own. Some of your fly-control measures, like fly boots and sheets, sprays, traps and fans, can help with this, but there are other methods you can employ for mosquitoes.

“Eliminate standing and stagnant water to remove their breeding ground, along with vegetation that could be their habitat,” Grimes said. “Clean your water troughs regularly, and if you have stalls that are completely indoors, you can keep your horses in during dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active. There are also natural repellants like garlic, apple cider vinegar and essential oils such as citronella and eucalyptus that are said to repel mosquitoes.”

Layer Your Defenses to Ensure Complete Protection

If you live in a region that is particularly prone to flies and mosquitoes, you may have to employ multiple methods to get some semblance of control. A barrier, like fly sheets, boots and masks is the first step, Grimes said, followed by good environmental practices.

“I believe that a combination of these things is of great benefit,” Grimes said. “Keep the property free of manure, use traps to get the adult flies and mosquitos, give feed-throughs to prevent more flies from maturing and spray repellants. Most importantly on the mosquito side is vaccinations. Vaccination is at the top of my list due to its ability to prevent mosquito diseases. Twice a year vaccination in heavy mosquito populated environments is highly recommended.”

Preventing these diseases is often easier than treating them, so if you don’t already have control practices in place, it’s a good idea to start now. You likely won’t eliminate every fly and mosquito on your property, but by taking preventative measures, you can limit the number that come into contact with your horse. That way, you’ll be able to spend more time riding and enjoying the long summer days ahead.

This article originally appeared on Quarter Horse News and is published here with permission.

There are more informative and entertaining articles in our section on Tack & Farm. While you're here be sure to check out our Curated Amazon Store.

by Kristin Pitzer

For many equestrians, saddle shopping is exciting, but stressful. Saddles are one of the most expensive pieces of equipment you’ll purchase for riding, and the options are endless, depending on the discipline you ride, design you’re seeking and price point you want to pay.

One way riders stretch their budgets is by buying used, as quality used saddles typically have lots of life left in them. The ease of finding used saddles online through private individuals means you might not see the saddle in person before buying it, though, which can lead to problems. Even purchasing in person from a dealer shouldn’t be taken lightly.

Quarter Horse News spoke with Adam Schwalm, owner of The Saddle House in Sealy, Texas, which sells new custom saddles as well as high-end used saddles, to get some tips on buying used.

Decide if Used Is for You

One of the perks of buying a used saddle is that they tend to be cheaper than new saddles. That doesn’t mean they’ll be free — a high-quality used saddle can still set you back several thousand dollars — but you’ll likely drop far less than you would if the saddle were new. High-end used saddles that have been maintained well — cleaned, oiled and kept in a climate-controlled area — can last 20-30 years, and some even longer if cared for and stored correctly. Plus, they are usually already broken in, meaning if they’re sized correctly, they’ll feel comfortable and secure from the get go.

On the other hand, buying used can come with its own complications. New saddles tend to have warranties, whereas a used saddle probably won’t. That means if you shell out money for a used saddle and the tree breaks shortly after you get it, you will likely be out the cash, especially if you purchased from a private individual online.

“When buying used online, you don’t know what you’re getting as far as wear and tear, quality or craftsmanship,” Schwalm said. “Buying a reputable brand helps to relieve some of that concern as far as quality and craftsmanship, but a lot of times, people don’t show you everything in the photos.”

Utilize Shops With Good Reputations

Where you purchase a used saddle from makes a difference. While there are many honest private sellers out there, there are just as many that will hide flaws in the saddle or will be too optimistic in determining its condition. Buying from a higher end tack shop or a saddle maker is usually less risky.

“They normally will go through saddles before they resell them to make sure everything’s in good working order,” Schwalm said. “If I’m selling a used saddle, my reputation is on the line that goes with it. We’re going to stand behind it, make sure it’s a good product, because I don’t want to look bad over making a little bit of money on something like that.”

Look for shops that have decent return policies so that if the saddle doesn’t fit, they can either refund your money or help you find a different saddle that works instead.

Inspect in Person if Possible

Shopping online is popular these days, but if you can inspect the saddle in person before buying it, that is ideal, Schwalm said. Seeing it in person is even better if you can bring your horse along to try it on, so you know without a doubt it will work for your situation.

When inspecting a saddle, be sure to check the tree, leather parts, rigging and fleece. You can press on the tree to make sure it’s sturdy and not broken. Watch out for cracks, tears and dry rot in the leather components. Make sure the rigging is not coming apart, and check to see what kind of condition the fleece is in.

“Is it real fleece or synthetic? Higher-end saddles will have real wool,” Schwalm said. “Does it have some padding to it, or is it kind of matted down and hard? Has it rubbed off, and does it need to be redone?”

Size Correctly

Sizing is an important part of buying any saddle, whether new or used. If the saddle doesn’t fit your horse correctly, it can cause pain and long-term physical damage that can lead to behavioral issues and reduced performance. Dealers at tack shops can usually help you find the right fit, but if you’re shopping online, be aware that not everybody knows how to properly measure saddles.

“Most of the time when you’re buying a used saddle online from an individual, unless they have the specs from the maker, they probably do not have accurate information on that saddle,” Schwalm said. “The best thing you can do would be to check the serial number if they have one, or check with the maker. Most people with a tape measure or a yard stick taking pictures of their saddle are not correct on most of the measurements.”

Things to look for include gullet width, whether the saddle has full quarter horse or semi quarter horse bars, and the seat size of the saddle. If you find a saddle that has the measurements you think you need, but it’s not local to you, try to find a similar one you can try out in person.

“If you have a friend with one, that’s a great way of doing it, or maybe you can haul your horse to a show and try it on there,” Schwalm suggested.

Don’t Be a Victim

If you decide to purchase a saddle online from a private individual, proceed with caution. Unfortunately, there are lots of swindlers out there just waiting to take advantage of someone willing to hand over their money. You could end up with a saddle that looks nothing like its pictures, or no saddle at all.

“Facebook is not a great place to be shopping for saddles these days — there’s a million scammers out there,” Schwalm said. “I see a lot of saddles online where people aren’t using current photos or are using somebody else’s photos. There’s no telling what’s happened to that saddle since those photos were taken. I get that a lot — people send me pictures of a saddle from four years ago, and it shows up looking nothing like the photos.”

This article originally appeared on Quarter Horse News and is published here with permission.

There are more informative and entertaining articles in our section on Health & Education. While you're here be sure to check out our Curated Amazon Store.